Abigail Hat Tutorial This tutorial is meant to be used along side the pattern instructions. everyone has their own ways of constructing so don't be afraid of experimenting! mock ups in card are always a good idea for the novice to become familiar with the techniques Enjoy your hat making
1. Cut out hat pieces in buckram. Here is shown just the main hat parts,(there is also the crown sides lining and crown lining).
I prefer to cut the lining parts later so they can’t be confused and mistakes made as the main crown and crown sides and their lining counter parts are very similar.
mark lines for the darts in brim and snip to the dot.
Depending on the fabric covering you can use a thin layer of wadding to soften the feel of the hat and buckram. If using wadding i make the darts in buckram and fabric separately then lightly glue wadding to brim and sew fabric through all thickness's at darts.
2. Overlap the darts to the mark so that you are pulling overlap towards the back of hat and sew down starting from edge with machine (use large gage needle 16 or 18).. swivel at point and return to brim edge. complete all four darts. If adding the wadding cut a v out for darts and lightly dot glue out over the brim and attach the wadding.
3. Showing close up of the darts.
. 4. Mark the darts onto fabric on wrong side and sew. press darts towards back and lay fabric onto buckram (covered with wadding if using) right side upwards. Position fabric so darts are aligned and topstitch over each dart through all thickness's.
5. Next press crown main fabric to adhesive side of buckram.
Use a hot iron and allow to cool to bond well.
Press under the fabric allowance on crown with bondaweb and allow to cool. you may also use fabric or craft glue for this stage.