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Busk insertion Tutorial for All Corset Patterns
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Cut out the centre front pieces. 2 x main fabric. 2 x middle lining – this should be a mid weight firmly woven cotton or poly cotton. 2 x Main lining, either a coutil or a cotton drill.
Lay the pair of middle linings on the work table.
Now lay the main fabric pieces on top of the middle linings with right sides facing upwards.
Now lay the main lining pieces on top of the main fabric –this time with right sides facing down – so that main fabric and main lining are right sides together.
This is how the three centre pieces now lay on top of each other.
Pin along the straight edge and sew the seam allowance as shown on the pattern through all the thicknesses. 30mm from the centre edge.
Open the main fabric and pushing the seams towards the lining side, topstitch through main lining and seam allowances. This should make the fronts lay flat.
Cut 2 reinforcing strips of a strong cotton or stiff woven interfacing approx 3-4 cm wide and longer than the centre front panels.
Lay this under the opened panel as shown in the picture its laying underneath sticking out top and bottom and topstitch about 3-4mm from the centre seam.
Then make another row of topstitching 3 mm away from this.
Showing the sewing of topstitching with the reinforcing strip underneath.
Showing once side of centre front with two rows of topstitching.
Lay the loop side of the metal busk onto the right side panel of busk front. Mark under each loop with a pin.
This is the position where the bottom of each button hole will start.
Showing how to start making the button holes. The button hole should bridge the two rows of topstitching.
Different machines have different button hole attachments – or they can be done manually. As long as the lower edge of button hole starts at the pin the positioning will be correct.
Set the size of button holes to just 1mm larger than the loop, practice before sewing on corset and use a good quality embroidery thread.
This is is how the button holes will look when finished. Apply fraycheck to centres of the button holes and allow to dry before cutting open. Then trim any threads and reseal if necessary.
Use the loop side of busk in same position on the left panel (from top and lower edge). Mark with white pencil dots in between the two lines of topstitching.
Make very small button holes around this dot, start just below the dot and set size to just leave enough space to cut hole for the stud part of busk. Again practice this before sewing on the corset
Push the loop side through the holes from the back and fold the lining to back. Sew a channel as close to the busk as is possible.
Showing the right panel with busk loops sewn in.
Showing the small button holes on left panel to push the studs through. Seal the centres of button holes with fraycheck before cutting them.
Showing the studs pushed through small button holes on left panel
Both sides with busk sewn in. Note that the right panel back lining is overlapping slightly.
This is as it should be – align centre edges and trim both panels to exactly the same size.
Hook together and trim tom and bottom edges slightly so they meet perfectly.
Busk now ready to sew to rest of corset. Do not sew the side seams but leave open and loose for now.
Finished – now go to the corset tutorial which matches your pattern.