NOTES: If buying a full hat kit from us it comes with Latex glue and bondaweb iron on adhesive strips for bonding the fabric. This is for legal reasons as it is a non toxic glue. It works well with fabric but you do need to leave a few minutes until tacky and then clamp / hold pieces together firmly and leave to dry completely between stages to give it the full strength. So the hat making time is extended. In the tutorial below I am using neoprene contact adhesive glue in gel form. This is a solvent based glue, not suitable for children. It works brilliant and I like the gel form as no drips so it doesn't get everywhere. It bonds almost instantly so you can make a complete hat in about an hour or two with some practice. You must use in a well ventilated room latex gloves recommended.
CUTTING OUT: Start by cutting out the Buckram pieces as indicated on pattern. This needs to be done very carefully and accurately. Even the width of a pencil line and scissors cutting outside that line can add considerable size to the circumference of a circle..Also the weight of a fabric can change the size of the crown circumference if it is very thick. Be aware of this when you first start. Use a natural cotton or linen fabric for your first hat. Synthetic fabrics are more challenging and can take a bit of experience to make perfect hats.
1. Cut out and glue the small insert pieces to the insert backs. See glue notes above. I use contact adhesive and cover the whole of the back larger instert pieces so they are ready ready to glue into the side splits.
2. Press each inset between the spilts in side piece making sure the edges of smaller insert align with top of hat. any overlaping bits of the larger insert backs can be trimmed later. Make sure the small inserts fit neatly with no gaps.
Glue outside of one end and inside edge of other end of hat side buckram. Wait until tacky and overlap and press firmly.
Trim any edges of the insert back pieces that overhang the top edge of hat
Cut out the fabric piece for the hat sides. The fabric shown has a two way stretch along the length. If you are making with non stretch fabric you must cut with bias grain as shown on pattern piece.
Sew back seam either by hand or on sewing machine. Can also be glued if you are neat.
Showing the back seam from inside.
Pull the fabric covering over the hat from narrow end first. Align the back seam with back join of the hat sides and check its straight. small bulldog clips are useful.
Make some snips around the lower overhang. Apply glue to both inside of hat along bottom edge and the inside of the fabric edge. Turn under and press firmly down. Allow to dry if using latex glue.
Cut out brim in Buckram. Cut out outer fabric at least 20mm 3/4 inch larger. One side of buckram is shiny this is the adhesive side. Using hot iron press down. Place under a heavy book or weight until cool. The fabric should be evenly bonded to buckram. glue outer edges of crown buckram and fabric. Turn over and press down. make sure the edges are neat and tightly to the buckram, no lumps or pleats showing on the edges.
Align the crown to the sides, matching quarter marks. Sew with small sticthes so almost invisible from outside.
Different hat but close up Showing stitches of hat crown to sides.
Cut 1 x brim From Burckram. Cut 2 piece fabric equal size or slightly larger.
With shiny side to wrong side of fabric bond with hot iron and no steam. Keep iron in one place then move on. Weigh down with heavy flat weight such as book until cold. Trim any excess fabric to edge of brim. Snip the centre tabs carefully.
for lower side of brim buckram that is not adhesive use a bondaweb square. Cut a piece to size of brim and lay paper side up/ adhesive side down onto buckram. Allow to cool, peel paper back off. Bond fabric to the under brim same as for top with hot iron. weigh until cool.
Trim fabric to the edge of brim and trim tabs again.
Coat the tabs in centre of upper brim with glue to soak in. Picture showing a glue guide as i am the worlds worse at getting glue everywhere so i cover the parts not intending on glueing!
Sew Bias binding to edge. Picture showing where bias overlaps at back. Fold raw edges in ... next picture.
Showing join of bias binding so raw edges of binding are concealed.
Turn bias over edge and sew down.
Align hat to brim at centre back. Start to press tabs inside the hat from back, then centre front and work your way around until fixed to hat.
press tabs to inside until firmly stuck. With contact glue this only takes a minute. With latex glue make sure both sides are very tacky before joining.
cut elastic into 2 x 12cm / 5 inch strips. glue leaving a loop.
Mark either side of hat with pins or chalk and attach the loops that will hold the elastic strap that will go around head to fix.
Glue most of the length to inside of the hat. If using hot glue press to inside of hat with something firm... not your hand its very hot! just leave small loop showing. repeat for other side.
Almost finished. The Brim can be curled up. If you want it to have an extreme curl tie some eastic around hat to hold in place and it can be held over steam. then allow to cool and dry completely. I find it curls enough without doing this. be careful of steaming delicate or non dye fast fabrics too.
All that is left is to add the lining. I will take some pics and add as soon as possible. its quite simple but pics always make easier.