This hat pattern is mainly made with, fabric bonding using glue and some hand sewing and or machine sewing. Intermediate skills required. Project will take approx 3-4 hours plus some extra time to dress and embellish.
After cutting out pattern pieces use a very hot iron (with Teflon shoe cover on iron) to press the wrong side of fabric onto the adhesive side of buckram pieces, allowing 1.5 -2cm extra fabric all way around. Natural fabric are best for adhering to the buckram.
Position the brim buckram piece adhesive side of buckram to wrong side of fabric and repeat pressing. Leave the centre back 5cm from cut edges unpressed for now. Its sometimes best to leave weighted down until completely cooled.
Cut out the centre of fabric so it matches inner edges of buckram. Leave fabric overhanging outer edge for now and sew very close to buckram outer edge. This raw edge will later be trimmed before binding but I find sewing it down keeps neat.
The centre back seam of the brim needs to have the fabric trimmed from the side with shaped edge. Do not cut the fabric more than the pencil line!
The straight edge can now have the fabric folded over and using a thin strip of bondaweb press down with hot iron.
Press the crown buckram onto main fabric in same way as previous pieces.
Fold over and press down using strips of bondaweb to make a good clean oval. The edges of the fabric must be tightly and neatly folded over the edge of the buckram.
Make sure the centre and quarter lines are marked accurately on the buckram and press down the buckram crown sides piece onto the fabric.
Make sure that there is enough fabric to fold over the end seam (end not marked with pencil line –shown here to the left)
As with the crown piece, use bondaweb to fold over the edges neatly and tightly and seal down. This is where having a teflon cover on the iron really helps as any glue from the bondaweb just wipes away and prevents mess!
Fold the back seam edge last and bond so no frayed edges showing on right side. The opposite seam end can be cut neatly to edge of buckram.
Prepare some craft, latex or fabric glue and apply to inside of the end seam. This must be done carefully as too much will spoil the seam. Line up and overlap exactly on the pencil line. Use small clamps to hold down until dry.
Now to shape the brim. Turn buckram side up and sew around the inner circle with a long stitch to mark where the crown side attach to the brim.
Cut tabs into the centre allowance been very careful not to cut deeper than the marked stitch line.
The back seam on the brim can be either glued or sewn. Here is how it been sewn flat. Make sure that the overlap is exactly lined up on the pencil mark or the crown sides won’t fit perfectly.
Turn the tabs upwards to make fold along stitch line then lay flat again.
Having joined the brim lining and using a ruffling foot gathered one edge to fit the inner circle lay onto buckram side of brim and very carefully sew just to the inside of the marked stitch line.
Make sure pleats/ gathers are equal all way around.
Pulling the gathered lining mark and tack at the four quarter marks on brim, then again tack at eighths. Then gather as you sew and keeping the lining tight sew the lining to the very edge of the the buckram. You will notice that the lining is cut to the widest point and will overhang a lot at the narrow back. I find it easier to sew like this then simply trim the excess.
Check lining is even all the way around brim and then trim the excess lining from outer edge.
I now sew the bias binding to the hat brim. This can be done by hand and many people prefer to hand sew. I use my machine. Open up the double folded bias binding ( finished width approx 20 -22mm wide). And starting towards the back sewn onto lining side all way around checking that it will turn over and cover the stitch line that will show on top side.
Neaten ends and turn bias to topside.
Sew by machine or hand the bias binding on the other side of brim.
Before gluing check that the brim fits the crown sides the best you can buy pushing brim tabs up and around the crown sides. It should be a perfect snug fit if the seams were aligned properly.
On the inside of the crown sides lower edge spread some glue along the fabric. Be very careful to do this, making sure there is enough to soak into the fabric but not drip. put to one side for a couple of minutes whilst doing the same with the brim tabs. NOTE: if the lining has added some ruffle bulk to the tabs – sew around a couple of times to make them lie as flat as possible. Then apply glue to the buckram side of tabs – do not allow drips but cover all the way to sewn circle.
After a few minutes and both sides are slightly tacky align the centre front brim to centre front of crown sides, making sure the crown sides is pressed firmly onto the crease wit tabs pressed hard to inside. Be very aware of the rest of hat so no glue ends up touching other parts.
Do same for centre back and start to feel the tabs to inside of the edges so the crown sides are snugly sat onto the brim and the shape is neat with no gaps. You should find the glue bonds quite quickly so any adjustments need to be made quickly if done wrong. As with all crafts patience and practice and always make a mock up in card or scrap materials to practice the methods.
Keep pressing the tabs firmly to inside of hat sides. I use my knee and make sure hands are free from glue at all times. Keep a clean cloth handy for any hand wiping.
Now align the quarter marks on the crown to the crown sides.
It should be a perfect fit if the crown sides were matched and the fabric is tightly folded over the edges. Hold in place with a few pins and hand sew the crown to sides using small invisible stitches in a matched thread.
Use a fine needle as you are only sewing the fabrics not the buckram. Small fine stitches will give the neatness and strength needed.
There are different ways to line any hat. These directions use a second layer of buckram. If you want a lighter weight hat you can of course just use a lining fabric without the buckram and sew lining crown and crown sides together, turn through and slip stitch to the inside of hat.
Iron buckram lining to wrong side of lining fabric the same as for main fabric.
For the lining I sew a strip of looped elastic to the curved lower edge that I use for hat pins and combs but this is optional. You may want to attach ribbons for tying hat under chin or loops to thread an alice type headband. Do this now to lower edge of lining and sewn raw edge up onto inside. Neaten seam edges as before. Leave top edges of fabric raw and don’t turn in.
Align exactly on pencil lines, glue and clamp as before. Allow to dry. Check to make sure the lining sits well inside the hat before adding glue!
Inside the main hat spread latex glue around the crown and sides and lower edges where the frilled lining is covering the tabs. Also spread a little glue to the buckram side of lining. Allow a few minutes to become tacky and very carefully place lining inside hat and press to sides. The first time I did this I almost stuck it in the wrong way – bend the lining piece so you can adjust before pressing to outer edge.
Lastly cover the inner crown buckram piece with lining and press down edges around outer edge with bondaweb. Then apply glue to inside of crown and back on lining and press into place.
The structure is now finished and hat can be trimmed up as you wish.
Always remember this is just one construction method, we all make changes and adjustments to how we work so experiment away to find the method that suits your own way of working. :-)