Mark the buckram on non adhesive side if using buckram with an adhesive side.
The pattern pieces don’t include seam allowances. These differ depending on fabric thickness.
If you decide to use wadding for finer fabrics cut out the wadding a fraction larger than the pieces. (note: there is a choice of two crown sides, one has the seam at centre back –the other the seam at the sides)
For the top brim piece lay the buckram onto fabric and cut out fabric at least 1.5cm-2cm larger than the buckram.
If using buckram with an adhesive side use a hot iron to fuse the buckram to the fabric.
Test heat of iron on a scrap piece first.
Repeat the same for the under brim piece.
Cut out the small centre oval.
If using wadding: the wadding is first lightly glued to the buckram and then the main fabric is usually tacked into place around edges.
Cut the inner tabs to the line of the inner oval. to the Line.
Cut out the lining pieces. Mark the four quarter marks on crown lining. Join lining crown sides at back seam.
Align the crown sides and crown lining and join seam.
On lower edge of lining crown sides – turn narrow hem under and sew.
I like to add a trim of looped elastic to the lower hem of hat lining –this helps attach hair combs.
Also two loops of elastic (one either side) to thread an Alice band or extra clips is a good idea.
Mark the inner oval in tailors chalk on right side of fabric, just at the edge of the cut tabs.
Align the hat lining to right side of lower brim and using large gauge needle and longest stitch on machine sew the hat lining to the chalk line.
This is how it will look. This is how I sew the hats but it does take practice to put together without getting glue on lining!
There is nothing wrong with sewing the lining into the hat by hand once its finished.
For the upper brim snip the inner edge and fuse with bondaweb to the buckram. The fabric can also be glued down if prefered.
Apply small amount of glue to wrong side of upper brim and lower brim.
Align both halves and bond buckram together.
Allow to dry and sew around the very edge of brim and trim excess fabric to edge of buckram.
The upper side of hat brim now looks like this.
To sew the bias binding by machine use ready made or make your own binding at least 21mm wide once double folded.
Starting at centre back of brim sew the bias right sides together.
Use the inside of binding fold line as a guide to sew to edge of brim.
Make sure the ends are folded back under to conceal the raw edge when you finish.
Now roll the bias back over the other side and pull into position.
Tuck the ends in and pin if this helps.
Sew down on the edge of bias to finish neatly.
This can also be hand sewn.
This is how the upper brim bias edging should look when finished.
It does take a little practice to do perfectly.
For the hat crown fuse the buckram to the fabric with hot iron.
If not using buckram with and adhesive side then use sheet bondaweb to fuse together
Using bondaweb fold the edges over and press down so that the curved edge is smooth and fabric flush to edge of buckram. fabric, craft or latex glue can also be used.
Fuse the crown sides to the main fabric.
Trim one end (the side with the pencil mark for seam alignment) to edge of buckram.
Leave a fabric allowance at other end to turn under.
Use bondaweb to fold under the edges of crown sides along the end sea first then top and lower edge.
The lower edges might need a couple of snips along the curves to fold neatly to the buckram.
Apply glue and overlap the ends of crown sides so that they align exactly with the pencil line on inside.
Clamp and leave to dry.
Align the crown to the crown sides at quart points and pin.
Hand sew the crown to crown sides using small invisible stitches.
See next stage before sewing as you may wish to complete next stage first on your first hat
This is the trickiest part, if you prefer this stage can be done before the crown is hand stitched to crown sides then you can see inside to press the tabs when gluing.
Practice dry before applying glue so you can feel how the tabs need to push up inside the hat crown sides.
Apply glue to buckram side of tabs, and inside the crown sides. allow to get tacky then align and push the tabs to fit into place. make sure the centre front and back is aligned carefully before pressing the tabs into the sides. hold firm until set.
I then weight in this position with a jam jar full of sand laid on its side –this sits in the curve of hat and ensures a perfectly neat glues seam between brim sides and crown.
Attach combs , head bands or clips to fix hat in place.
The hat is now finished ready to add the trims you want.