NOTES: If buying a full hat kit from us it comes with Latex glue and bondaweb iron on adhesive strips for bonding the fabric. This is for legal reasons as it is a non toxic glue. It works well with fabric but you do need to leave a few minutes until tacky and then clamp / hold pieces together firmly and leave to dry completely between stages to give it the full strength. So the hat making time is extended. In the tutorial below I am using neoprene contact adhesive glue in gel form. This is a solvent based glue, not suitable for children. It works brilliant and I like the gel form as no drips so it doesn't get everywhere. It bonds almost instantly so you can make a complete hat in about an hour or two with some practice. You must use in a well ventilated room latex gloves recommended.
CUTTING OUT: Start by cutting out the Buckram pieces as indicated on pattern. This needs to be done very carefully and accurately. Even the width of a pencil line and scissors cutting outside that line can add considerable size to the circumference of a circle..Also the weight of a fabric can change the size of the crown circumference if it is very thick. Be aware of this when you first start. Use a natural cotton or linen fabric for your first hat. Synthetic fabrics are more challenging and can take a bit of experience to make perfect hats.
Hat making buckram is like a very heavy interfacing, one side has iron on adhesive. Bond the shiny side of hat making Buckram to wrong side of the crown fabric. Use v hot iron and no steam. Hold iron in one place for several seconds and move on. weigh down until completely cool and fabric should be completely evenly bonded.
I am using contact adhesive. you may also use bondaweb strips toiron the fabric edges over or latex glue. if using latex its same as above but leave until rubbery before folding over.
Fold over edges, make sure the fabric is smooth and tight to edges of buckram. weigh until dry. (heavy book ideal)
trim the corners on other end of hat sides. Glue both buckram and fabric and fold over.
Bond the buckram side piece to fabric same as for crown. The pattern will show you overlap end. Trim fabric to edge of buckram at this end
Snip fabric curved sections so they will fold over buckram neatly.
Glue both fabric edges and buckram, when tacky fold over. Make sure fabric is tightly pulled over edges with no lumps, fold or loose sections.
Fold over the fabric. make sure tightly and smoothly pulled over edges.
Showing the fabric folded over end and glued down. Measure the overlap. I am marking 20mm as my fabric is thin. This WILL vary depending on fabric thickness. Test and pin crown to sides if you have thick fabric. Lay piece onto pattern and mark centre front point on inside and quarter points.
Glue both ends of hat side piece. One will glue on wrong side and other on right side. Overlap to mark and clamp. leave until set.
Align the centre front of crown to centre front of hat sides. Pin and check for fit. It can be hard to see if you are exact with your first hat. Pin quarter points then as many pins as you think you need to check the fit. Hand sew crown to sides with tiny stitches that should hardly show on outside. It is also possible with this type of hat to join using a hat glue gun. You need to hold crown and sides very firmly and dot glue inside at the quarter marks. Hold each one until completely cold. check you have no glue on outside of hat. This method takes practice and patience!
To make the brim Cut the darts into the buckram piece. (note here i am actually making the brim from canvas not buckram as the customer wants a softer flexible fabric). bond buckram to fabric. Trim inner oval and outer edge of fabric.
Trim the edge of back seam close to the underlap of the centre back edge. You need enough fabric to fold over the other edge.
Showing centre back seam with fabric foldedover centre back seam edge and glued down.
Apply a layer of glue to the centre tabs. This is because the fabric absorbs first layer of glue and you want a good grip when it fixes to the hat sides.
Fold the darts into potion towards the centre back of brim. Mark and apply glue to both top fabric that will be inside the dart and buckram side. fold dart and clamp until dry
Showing darts glued into position and clamped while glue setting.
Apply glue to both sides of centre back seam of brim, one on the underlap and one on overlap. Press together and clamp until set.
Sew both pieces together at the quarter seams. Open up into circle and gather the outer edge either by hand or machine to fit the outer edge of brim.
Lining joined and outer edge gathered to fit brim.
Close up of lining outer edge gathering done by machine.
Lining pinned right sides together to brim. I place my lining join seams at either side of hat.
Showing lining sewn to brim Right sides together. Stitch line if approx 12mm or 1/2 inch from edge. You can do deeper if you want more of the gathered lining to show on top of hat.
Showing lining turned through before sewing.
Stitch from the top side. Keep pulling lining so it is evenly gathered underneath and not too tight over the edge. "stitch in the ditch" slow and steady as close to the lining join seam as possible. Then holding the lining again sew from top around the edge of the tabs, If you want to mark the oval line to aid you sew around the tabs use a water soluble fabric pen.
Sew a few times around the tabs and lining to join. The lining must be a lightweight fabric to enable this. Then Trim excess lining from centre oval and cut the tabs carefully again.
Mark centre front of inner tabs with a dot of pencil or a pin. Glue the tabs again.
Glue around inside edge of the hat sides.
Align the centre front of hat sides to centre front of brim. Press this tab to inside of hat first. Then do same for centre back. Work around the sides of hat making sure its even and fitting the opening. If you have cut the tabs correctly its should fit perfectly.
Almost there. Just the loops for attaching the head band and fitting the lining.