1.Iron interfacing to wrong side of pocket welt and mark both welts on wrong side with a dot as on pattern. The narrow part will be the inside of welt so make sure fabric nap and pattern is correct way around.
2.Lay welt right sides together with 1 pocket lining making sure it’s the narrow part top wards. Sew narrow seam along top edge. Press.
3.Fold welt up and topstitch through all layers to help it lay flat.
4. Fold the welt over along the line where it’s marked with dots at edges. It will be longer on wrong side as in pic. Sew narrow seam down each edge to bottom of welt. Clip corners and lining. If not sure where to clip lining turn the welt through to right side and it will be come clear.
5.Make sure corners of welt are poked nice and sharp and square. Now sew along bottom edge of welt to neaten.
Call this side A
6.This is what the other side of welt will look like at this stage. This is the inside of welt and pocket lining.
Call this side B
7.Mark the position of pockets onto right side of waistcoat front. The front piece should already have the interfacing ironed or sewn to it.
8.Lay the welt side A onto the right side of waistcoat upside down along the marked line exactly. Now sew just under your stitch line that is showing, take care to also just sew below the chalk marked line on your waistcoat front.
9.It should look like this. Note you are sewing the exact length of welt, no shorter and not along the edges of lining!
10.Now pull the pocket lining down over the welt. Lay a second pocket lining above almost touching the edge and pin.
11. I’ve marked with chalk a line about ½ inch 12mm above my welt seam. You will sew along this line but not as wide as the welt. I make my top line of stitches approx 3/8 inch (1cm) shorter at each end than the lower stitch line. So the end chalk line represents my welt seam line.
12.It should now look like this!
13.This is the wrong side it’s easier to show you how to cut along the length between the two stitch lines, then down to the corners.
Then also cut along from the end of long cut up to edge of top stitch line.
14. I dab some fray check on the corners to prevent any wear and fraying to threads. Always test on fabric before using fray check!! Be very careful using with silk as it can spread and mark fabric.
15.Push both pocket linings through the whole and turn the welt upwards and pin neatly into position.
16. On the wrong side align the two pocket linings and pin. Do not pin to waistcoat! Just pin the two linings together.
17.Next you are going to sew the pocket linings together. To do this turn the main fabric under so you can sew along just the two pocket linings. I use a piping or zipper foot to get my stitch line as close to the edge of welt as possible. Repeat for other side seam and then along bottom of pocket.
18.Pocket should now look something like this. Check lower edge of waistcoat and make sure pocket its clear of lower seam allowance, re sew and trim lower edge if necessary.
19. Pocket lining is not attached to waistcoat!
20.Turn back to right side and sew edges of welt with small stitches through all layers to fix into position. Finished! A perfect tailored welt pocket. Press with damp cloth between iron and waistcoat.